The global wool industry
met in Istanbul
Istanbul is Turkey’s largest city. With a population exceeding 15 million, it stands as the country’s economic, cultural, and historic capital, offering an interesting vantage point of the intersection between agricultural and textiles.
Historically, the southeastern region of Turkey is part of the Fertile Crescent, the birthplace of modern agriculture where sheep were first domesticated around 8000 BCE. Turkey boasts a 2,500-year-old legacy in hand-knotted wool and silk carpets. The small coastal town of Hereke, 60 km outside Istanbul, is where the Ottoman sultan Abdülmecid I founded Hereke Imperial Manufacture in 1841, a factory dedicated to hand knot carpets in traditional Turkis designs.
Today, Turkey ranks fourth globally in Merino sheep production with 41.7 million sheep and a 4.1% share of the global wool market. Turkey is the second largest machine-woven carpet manufacturer, with an export market valued at $2.8 bn USD. Not to mention, it is a powerhouse of art, design and architecture. Undeniably, Istanbul has a lot to showcase and much to teach.
Canada’s mission
at IWTO
As Deputy Head of Canadian Delegation, I’ve had the privilege of helping to shape Canada’s mandate on the international stage. We advocate for Canadian-grown wool, across various farm management systems on our diverse landscape – with fairness and impartiality. By promoting Canadian wool, we are also raising awareness and aligning with other modest wool nations. Together, we call attention to the importance of extending scientific investigation to the strong wool market.
Traditional wool socks hand-knitted by Anatolian
women. A gift to delegates from the Turkish Textile
Employers’ Association.
What are the
Round Tables?
IWTO Wool Round Tables provide an intimate annual platform for discussing critical issues in the global wool industry. They attract 80 to 100 key figures, focusing on markets, forecasting, and strategy, while also hearing updates from various working groups.
Why are they
important?
Much like playing tennis with a slightly better opponent, these events provide an opportunity to engage with peers who challenge and refine our work. Below is a snapshot of the topics covered in Istanbul.
Product Wellness
Product Wellness Working Group provides a strategic forum to build and validate the health and wellness credentials of wool textiles.
2024 Report Pronounced focus on performance testing of wool technical materials and sportswear highlights an emerging opportunity for fine wools. This is good news for the global industry but disappointing for Canada since our strong wool is less desirable for next-to-skin athletic wear. A wool sleepwear study will cross-pollinate with a wool bedding study led by the Wool Interiors WG, promises useful data for Canadian stakeholders. Additionally, Canada tentatively has a new representative joining this working group to lobby for more balanced inquiries across wool types.
Wool Sheep Welfare
Wool Sheep Welfare Working Group supports and communicates best practices in global animal welfare. Members partner with relevant organisations, such as the World Organisation for Animal Health (WOAH).
2024 Report Wool Sheep Welfare WG is following the migratory path of Bluetongue disease and other sheep diseases. Bluetongue, a viral infection spread among sheep, cattle, goats, and other ruminants through insect bites, is spreading northward from Africa into Europe, Asia, Australia, and regions of North America with tropical and subtropical climates. It is maintained in areas where biting midges can survive over winter. While there is no immediate concern for Bluetongue in Canada, climate change requires vigilance. Learn more about Bluetongue here: https://www.woah.org/en/disease/bluetongue/
Wool Interiors
Wool Interiors Working Group addresses market barriers for strong wool in residential and commercial interiors applications with a focus on highlighting the threats from microplastics in decor textiles.
2024 Report A Wool Carpet Care and Maintenance Guide is published to demystify and simplify the cleaning and care of 100% wool carpets. Hexapod Tests (Phase 1) comparing 100% wool carpets with 80/20 wool-nylon blends indicate that 100% wool performed as well or better in terms of color, shedding, durability and longevity. Phase 2 is underway to test “like vs like”; using carpets from same breed wool. Additionally, a wool bedding study with Bangor University (UK) is testing microbial, temperature, and humidity control in wool bedding such as mattresses, duvets, pillows and blankets. Alongside the Sustainable Practices WG, studies on the harmful effects of microplastics and VOCs in interior environments.
Sustainable Practices
Sustainable Practices Working Group focuses on measures to quantify wool’s sustainability against common textile rating schemes. Members have invested over €700,000 to demonstrate the low environmental impact of wool.
2024 Report The Sustainable Practices WG leads the wool PEF lobby. (See below). Their upcoming IWTO Green Book will enhance transparency and understanding in wool production with the most comprehensive cradle to grave analysis yet. Read the Green Book press release.
Also the ZDHC’s “Roadmap to Zero” presentation shared alternatives for chemical textile dye. ZDHC is the world’s largest database for safer textile chemicals. They publish a list of harmful textile chemicals that should be discontinued. Learn more at roadmaptozero.com
PEF Method &
Make the Label Count
Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) is a methodology for measuring a product’s environmental impact throughout its lifecycle. The European Union, in its pursuit of its Green Deal, aiming for carbon neutrality and circularity by 2050, is employing PEF methodology to assess the environmental impact of textile products. The PEF approach is incomplete and prejudices wool and other natural fibres. This video from Make the Label Count explains the
situation.
In collaboration with Make the Label Count, IWTO is lobbying EU governments to re-evaluate their chosen methodology for labelling textiles. Alongside lobbying efforts, they’ve undertaken a comprehensive Life Cycle Analysis by Dr. Paul Swan. These developments are important for Canadian wool stakeholders selling wool textiles into European markets. These are also important legislative movements to watch since other countries may look to the EU when addressing their textile labelling goals.
